Here in Benin, preparation for Christmas starts somewhere in the beginning of December. The seamstress shops are among the busiest, making new clothes for everyone. Almost everyone gets new clothes if they have even a little bit of money. This gets to be a problem for the people who sew the clothes. Most of them end up working most of the month of December (days, many nights, and weekends).

Most churches start practicing and planning their Christmas programs. In Cotonou this year, I even saw a few places with gaudy Christmas decorations.

A couple of days before Christmas, ladies and little girls start getting their hair done up fancy. They get braids or twisted add-ons in their hair. I call it plastic hair (because that is what it is). Even little kids as young as two get fancy hair. The fancy hair is quite expensive and painful because it pulls their real hair.

On Christmas Eve, most churches have Christmas programs that try to help people focus on why there is a Christmas. They also keep some from heading out to drink beer.

In our Natitingou church last year, we had a wonderful potluck. Later we had a nice little program that involved everyone. There was a skit, lots of singing, reading, telling of Christmas stories, and a small Christmas sermonette.

On Christmas morning, all the kids and many grownups go out to visit their neighbors and parade their new clothes. Of course, like every fete (holiday, party), there are lots of things to eat. People often give children a piece of candy or a small cookie when they come for a visit.

For News Years Eve, most churches again have a program to bring in the New Year. Last year our church program started at 9 p.m. and went until midnight. We had lots of very upbeat music, singing, and testimonies from several people. The children sang and recited Bible verses. We had a time of prayer and commitment for the next year. Then Ulrike listened to the radio to find out the exact moment of midnight. Everyone said “Bonne Annee!” and “Happy New Year!”

Few people drink on New Years Eve because they want to be awake for the visiting, partying, and eating the next day. It usually starts about 5 a.m. with people shouting “Bonne Annee!” through the streets. When you visit people, they give you a big plate of food, mostly rice and a few noodles with sauce and a piece of meat. Believe me, you get quite full after the third or fourth heaping plate. But it is all yummy food. This is the day for everyone to be out showing off their new clothes and greeting people. Brothers and sisters and sometimes whole families dress in the same fabric, mostly because it is cheaper to buy lots of the same fabric. Those who didn’t have their hair done for Christmas now have it done for the New Year. In the evening, people turn their attention to alcohol. Throngs of people, including some children, get drunk and stay up all night. This is a good night to stay in the house.

The “feting” doesn’t really end from Christmas Eve until about three days after New Years. By then, I am usually tired of the holidays and ready to get back on to normal life!

• Twitter